Color Basics

By Paula Begoun

Here are some guidelines that can help you create the makeup look you want.

• Less is best.
• Foundation should match the skin exactly so there are no lines of demarcation.
• Concealer should be only a shade or two lighter than the foundation.
• Powder should match the foundation exactly or go on translucent so as not to affect the color of the foundation.
• Eyeshadow colors should be neutral or pale shades ranging from pale beige to pink to tan, brown, dark brown, and plums.
• Eyeshadow color (when used as a brow tint), should match the exact shade of the existing brow hair.
• Eyeliner on the upper lid should be a darker color than the line along the lower lid (which should be a softer shade of beige or brown).
• Blush can be almost any color as long as it coordinates with the lipstick color, but it must be blended on softly, without any noticeable edges.  A coordinating blush need not match your lipstick, but should be in the same tonal family.
• Lipstick guidelines are more versatile, from neutral to bold, with the only suggestion being that smaller lips should wear brighter shades than larger lips.
• To create a tanned appearance, use golden brown and chestnut shades for your blush, eyeshadows, contour, and lipstick, but do not, under any circumstances, apply a foundation or bronzer all over the face if it leaves a line of demarcation at the jaw or hairline.
• If you are wearing wardrobe colors like red or pink you can match your lipstick with that color. However, try not to clash color tone. For example, if the outfit you are wearing is peach or coral, your blush and lipstick should have that same underlying color or be a neutral tone.

Color Mistakes to Avoid

• Don't wear white or very pale lipstick. This can make you look like a ghost.
• Don't wear blue or green makeup!
• Don't wear navy blue eyeshadow unless it is a deep, inky, almost black navy.  Stick with neutrals, pinks and plums, or black, which look smoky.
• Don't wear dark brown or black lipstick. (On Dracula it's great; on women, it looks like death.)
• Don't wear really shiny eyeshadows.
• Don't wear rainbow-style eyeshadow designs. Always blend the edges of color.
• Don't wear eyeshadow applied as a smudge of black around the eye, unless your objective is to look like you are in a punk rock band.
• Don't wear clashing blush and lipstick; they should be in the same color family.